Swell Summary

Surf heights will fall this evening as a short to medium period north swell decreases before a moderate to large swell arrives late tonight into tomorrow morning. Winds will ramp up later tonight and Small Craft Advisory criteria will be effect as a result, where a combination of winds and seas will likely produce SCA conditions in most coastal waters and channel areas.

A gale low currently passing far north of the state will send the next moderate to large medium period north-northwest swell later tonight and peak late Wednesday. Surf heights should exceed advisory thresholds along exposed north and west facing shores and hold into Thursday, before steady declining. A High Surf Advisory (HSA) is expected to be issued tonight once the outer buoys confirm the size of swell, given the fact that model guidance has not been as reliable from past swells. A reinforcing north- northwest swell is possible on Friday, which should help maintain moderate surf. In the long range, a deep low pressure system is expected to develop to our north and northeast Friday into Saturday. If this low forms as predicted, it will likely send a large north- northeast (020-030 degree) swell late this weekend. Due to the swell angle, heavy surges will be possible along north facing harbors such as Kahului and Hilo on Sunday.

South facing shores will remain small throughout this week. A small long-period south- southwest swell is possible Friday into the weekend with a larger out of season south swell possible by early next week. Surf for east facing shores should be rough and choppy tomorrow with the increasing trade winds and could also see a little bit of N wrap from the NNW swell.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com