Dangerous surf conditions forecast along most shores as seas swell

Spring has sprung, but swells still happen, and seas are surging this weekend with the arrival today of a large north swell reinforcing a north-northwest swell that built in down the island chain Friday night.

Surf along north and east shores of most Hawaiian islands — including Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau — will become dangerous during the swell’s peak tonight and Sunday after a much larger pulse of the north swell rapidly builds this afternoon.

In anticipation of those surf conditions, the National Weather Service forecast office in Honolulu has issued a high surf warning in effect until 6 p.m. April 6 for north and east shores.

“Entering the water in these areas during the high surf warning is very hazardous and could cause serious injury or death,” the Kaua‘i Fire Department said in a notification about the warning. “Beachgoers are also advised to use extreme caution, as large breaking waves could make it dangerous for those standing along the shoreline.”

Strong, breaking waves of 20 to 26 feet are expected by this afternoon along the North Shore, with breakers of 10 to 15 feet forecast along eastern shorelines.

Powerful currents will accompany warning-level surf, and large breaking waves in channel entrances could make navigation hazardous.

Forecasters advise the public to stay away from shorelines along the affected coasts, be prepared for road closures and postpone entering or leaving channels in the affected areas until the high surf subsides.

Meanwhile, west shores — including those of Kaua‘i — will experience elevated surf conditions from the reinforced swell, so a high surf advisory is in effect until 6 p.m. April 6, with surf of 10 to 16 feet by this afternoon.

Strong, breaking waves and strong currents along western shorelines will make swimming and other ocean activities in the advisory areas dangerous.

A storm far to the north of the state had an area of high winds pointed mostly south and pushed the large long-period swell toward the islands, according to Harry Durgin, citizen meteorologist and administrator of a Big Island weather group, in a post early Friday morning.

Forecasters in Honolulu remind the public to always heed all advice from ocean safety officials.

When in doubt, don’t go out.

Visit the National Weather Service Honolulu forecast office website for the most updated ocean information and weather alerts.

Speak with a Kaua‘i County lifeguard at any lifeguard station, visit the Safe Beach Day website or call the Kaua‘i Ocean Safety Bureau at 808-241-4984 for up-to-date information about Kaua‘i ocean conditions and ocean safety information.