Update: Dangerous surf pounds north and west shores; high surf warning extended

Update at 4:01 p.m. Jan. 6: A high surf warning issued for north- and west-facing shores of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau has been extended till Thursday evening.

According to the National Weather Service in Honolulu, dangerously large surf is expected through 48 hours and possibly beyond.

A large west-northwest (290-310) swell will build in tonight. An overlapping extra-large northwest (310-330) will build in early Wednesday and provide reinforcement. Surf heights will build far above warning levels by tomorrow morning and persist into Thursday.

Large breaking waves of 20 to 25 feet tonight then 25 to 35 feet Tuesday night onward along north-facing shores of Ni‘ihau and Kaua‘i are expected. Large breaking waves of 15 to 20 feet today and 20 to 25 feet Tuesday onward are expected along west-facing shores of Ni‘ihau and Kaua‘i.

Update at 7:26 a.m. Jan. 6: Dangerously large breaking waves of 20 to 25 feet today and 25 to 35 feet by Tuesday are forecast along north shores, while west shores will continued to be pounded by treacherous breakers of 15 to 20 feet today and 20 to 25 feet Tuesday, causing the high surf warning in effect for Kauaʻi and Niʻihau to be extended until 8 a.m. Wednesday.

National Weather Service forecasters in Honolulu expect warning level surf will continue along north and west coasts of both islands as another reinforcing northwest swell swiftly builds in later tonight into Tuesday.

An even larger swell will build into the region from Tuesday night into Wednesday.

Surf heights from Tuesday into Wednesday are forecast to build far above warning thresholds, bringing significant and dangerous surf along north and west shores.

The Kauaʻi Fire Department reiterated that entering the water during periods of a high surf warning is not just hazardous and can cause harm or injury, it can also lead to death.

Beachgoers should use extreme caution, as large breaking waves along the north and west shores will make swimming, other ocean activities and even just standing along the coastline dangerous.

Impact expectations continue to be very high.

Ocean water will surge and sweep across beaches, coastal benches and lava flows, potentially impacting coastal properties and infrastructure, including roads.

Powerful longshore and rip currents will be present at most beaches, creating hazardous conditions for all ocean activities including swimming.

Large breaking waves and strong currents also can impact harbor entrances and channels, causing challenging boat handling.

The National Weather Service advises the public to:

• Stay away from the shoreline along affected coasts.
• Be prepared for road closures.
• Postpone entering or leaving channels until the high surf subsides.

For updated information about ocean and weather alerts, visit the National Weather Service Honolulu forecast office website.

For up-to-date information about Kaua‘i ocean conditions and ocean safety, speak with a Kaua‘i County lifeguard at any lifeguard station, click here or call the Kaua‘i Ocean Safety Bureau at 808-241-4984.

Update at 7:17 a.m. Jan. 5: Dangerous high surf is once again slamming north and west shores of Kauaʻi and Niʻihau, peaking this morning above warning levels as the first in yet another series of large to extra large winter swells makes its way through the islands.

Warning level surf is expected to continue through Monday afternoon, causing forecasters with the National Weather Service in Honolulu to extend a high surf warning in effect for the same shores until 6 p.m. Monday.

Dangerously large breaking waves of 25 to 35 feet are expected along north shores, with dangerously large breakers of 15 to 26 feet expected along west shores.

“Entering the water in these areas during the high surf warning is very hazardous and could cause serious injury or death,” said the Kauaʻi Fire Department in an announcement Sunday morning about the warning extension. “Beachgoers are also advised to use extreme caution, as large breaking waves could make it dangerous for those standing along the shoreline.

Forecasters say another northwest swell will swiftly build in from Monday night into Wednesday.

Impacts from this latest high surf event are also again expected to be very high.

Expect ocean water surging and sweeping across beaches, coastal benches and lava flows, potentially impacting coastal properties and infrastructure, including roads.

Powerful longshore and rip currents will be present at most beaches, creating hazardous conditions for all ocean activities including swimming.

Large breaking waves and strong currents also can impact harbor entrances and channels, causing challenging boat handling.

The National Weather Service advises the public to:

• Stay away from the shoreline along affected coasts.
• Be prepared for road closures.
• Postpone entering or leaving channels until the high surf subsides.

For updated information about ocean and weather alerts, visit the National Weather Service Honolulu forecast office website.

For up-to-date information about Kaua‘i ocean conditions and ocean safety, speak with a Kaua‘i County lifeguard at any lifeguard station, click here or call the Kaua‘i Ocean Safety Bureau at 808-241-4984.

Original post at 4:23 p.m. Jan. 3: A high surf advisory is issued for north- and west-facing shores of Kaua‘i and Ni‘ihau beginning at noon on Saturday.

According to the National Weather Service in Honolulu, the first in a series of large to extra large northwest swells is due this weekend. Long period forerunners are expected Saturday morning and will build quickly down the island chain Saturday afternoon before peaking Saturday night and early Sunday.

The advisory is in place until 6 p.m. Sunday, however, the warning will likely need to be expanded to include the exposed west facing shores of the Big Island on Saturday, according to the National Weather Service.

By Saturday afternoon, surf of 10 to 15 feet will rapidly build to 20 to 30 feet along the north facing shores and surf of 8 to 12 feet will build to 15 to 22 feet on west facing shores, effecting the exposed shores of Niʻihau, Kauaʻi, Oʻahu, Molokai and Maui.

The National Weather Service is predicting high impact with strong breaking waves and powerful currents. Residents and visitors are advised to stay away from the shoreline along the affected coasts, be prepared for road closures and postpone entering or leaving channels affected by the high surf until it subsides.