Photo Credit: Sebastian Gabriel

Swell Summary

Generally strong trades will continue to generate rough, choppy surf along east-facing shores through the weekend with a gradual early week decline as a result of weakening easterlies. A pre-dawn medium period spike in northwest swell is occurring at the far northwest buoys. Thus, north and west-facing shore surf will be on the rise today as this moderate size, medium period northwest swell arrives through late morning and peaks this afternoon into evening. Peak surf heights may approach High Surf Advisory levels along exposed north-facing shores today. A pair of moderate size, medium to long period north northwest swells are possible Tuesday into Wednesday and Thursday into Friday of next week. The early week northwest swell originating from a compact hurricane force low east of Japan will begin filling in late Monday and peaking Tuesday. The later week north northwest swell coming from a broader area of gale force winds southwest of the Aleutian Islands may arrive and peak next Friday. While the first swell origin's source is a deeper low, it is farther away and swell size may be compromised by angular spreading along its long eastern journey. The late week swell fetch area's gales are more in-line with the Great Circle route aimed toward the islands. Thus, this may be the larger of the two swells, pushing surf to near High Surf Warning levels as it arrives from a more northerly direction. A small, long period southwest swell is possible Sunday into early next week.

Data Courtesy of NOAA.gov and SwellInfo.com